1-September-2007, Truckee, CA (via Garfield Bay)
PCT mileage: 1156 -- Restart miles: 492

You may have guessed from the heading: I'm off the trail for this year. Two days out from Truckee I started feeling tired and lethargic. A virus of sometype may have added to the feeling, but as I was heading downhill for 7 miles to Donner Pass/Truckee I wanted to stop every 15 or so minutes for a rest break. By the time I got to Truckee I knew that it was time to bail--That was Wednesday, Aug 29. Its now Saturday and I'm still fatigued so it was a good call to listen to my body and head for our northern home.

The hike from Bridgeport went well. I caught a ride early morning and was on the trail before 8am. Some 75 miles later after crossing thru the Carson Iceberg and the Mokelumne Wilderness, and the El Dorado, Toiyare, and Stanislaus Forests, I reached Echo Lake (Resort--Post Office) which is about 20 miles out of South Tahoe. Along the way went up over passes, back down to valleys/creeks, past lakes, around weird, bizarre volcanic sculptures, thru forested areas, traversed ridges/crest, and paralleled some roads. The volunteers manning a FS info station at Carson Pass on highway 88 gave me a banana, apple, and some Oreo cookies. That apple sure tasted good when I stopped to eat it on top of a hill an hour later.

At the Echo Lake Post Office I was able to get my resupply box even though it was Sunday--owners of a small place have some flexibility. Lower Echo Lake was busy with hikers, etc. There is even a water taxi that takes folks up the lake for about 3 miles--there were quite a few weekend backpackers waiting for the taxi at the north end...

Desolation Wilderness was the prime focus of the weekenders and daily hikers. Since it was Sunday evening, I found a spot near Aloha Lake and took the opportunity to rinse my legs and shirt in the clear water. (No, I did not use soap--plain old water can remove dirt and sweat pretty well.) Past multiple lakes--Heather, Susie, Gillmore, Dicks, Middle Velma in the Desolations--the next morning.

In the Granite Chief Wilderness when I stopped for lunch on a high ridge, I finally looked up and wondered where those dark, widespread clouds came from. Decided to take only a half hour and semi-raced the clouds, making a clean get-away. Once down off the ridge about 3 hours later, stopped for a break and KA-BOOM right over me thunder rattle the trees (and me). Started to rain a little for about 30 minutes. Started hiking again once the lighting had gone away but there was slight drizzle/rain for the next few hours. First hours of rain in 28 days. Left the wilderness beneath the ski lifts of Squaw Valley and camped at the start of Squaw Creek. The rain stopped before I did, so supper fixing and tent raising was easy. The following day -- Wednesday the 29th -- after a 1200' climb it was all down hill as I mentioned above.

The California-Oregon border was still another 600 miles away, but those five or so weeks will have to wait for another year. Then there are still the 900 or so miles in Oregon and Washington. Since I'm finding it difficult to keep hiking for more then 4-6 weeks at a time, I guess I'll have a few more summers to play around with the PCT.

In the meantime I'll be trying to get some pictures ready for my web site, fredgaudetphotography.com.




22-August-2007, Bridgeport, CA
PCT mileage: 1018; mileage since restart: 354

Another zero day in a week. Wow, my body will not know what to do with all the rest.

I'm two days ahead of schedule. The rides from Mammoth Lake were quick--I was on the trail by 7:15 after three rides. Twenty plus days were a little higher than the 17 I had used as a planning guide.

When I got to Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite it was the first time in 240 miles that the trail crossed a road. (Previously I had left the trail to find a parking lot, etc.) Traffic and tourists, which was expected. T.M. consists of a store-post office-grill in one building and a gas station/mountain shop next door. I did buy a replacement filter for my water filter--was getting harder and harder to pump after the dirty water a few weeks back. Also bought a hamburger at the grill--there is often a line across the street but at 3:00 o'clock I had no wait.

Once back in the wilderness, there was a lot more foot and horse traffic, especially to Glen Alum(?) where there is a High Sierra Camp--perma tents and a mess hall. I camped there that night--backpacking area was a little removed from the tents-- because it has bear boxes and bears were known to inhabit the area. Alas, still haven't seen any bears.

Seemed to be getting a little dried the further north I went. Some creeks, lake outlets were dry. In fact, one crossing was dry this year when last year, according to an email that I just got, was 200' wide and 4' deep and a hiker was swept downstream a ways before being rescued. Along with no mosquitoes I guess there is some benefit hiking in the Sierras in August. No storms and no rain in the next week's forecast. I did send an e-mail to the PCT-list regarding water further north, especially and sources that have dried-up.

Almost upon leaving Yosemite Nat. Park, the geology of the Sierras changed. Replacing the white granite slabs/domes/peaks was a volcanic type rock, brownish in color and different texture. On Monday I climbed up 1500' to the top of a ridge, camping for the night on a small flat space. The next morning hike was almost surreal: volcanic ridges/peaks along a lateral traverse for some two miles reaching the Sierra Crest again. (I hadn't been on the Crest since before my first town stop over two weeks ago--the PCT had gone over passes and down into valleys/canyons continuously, but not on the eastern crest.) After some ups and downs along the crest-line, headed some 1200' feet down to Sonora Pass. The guidebook says that with snow cover sometimes into late July, the trail down can be lethal. (Another good reason for hiking the Sierras in August--no snow on the dozen or so passes.)

Once at Sonora Pass, got a ride from someone who had stopped there about two minutes before I arrived. Bridgeport--about 8 blocks long and 4 blocks wide. Now to get a ride that easy tomorrow...Echo Lake in the next 4-5 days and Truckee (Donner Pass) in about 4 or 5. Given these time lines I should be able to find a motel room just before the Labor Day weekend.




15-August-2007: Mammoth Lakes, CA
906 miles on the PCT; 242 miles since starting again Aug 1.

July 31 was spent flying to LA, car rental to Bakersfield, shuttle bus to Lake Isabelle and then to Onyx, and trying to hitch from 7pm to 8 pm. Since no traffic, went across the street (highway)--Onyx is a very small town--to find a spot in the field. Did get a ride the next morning at 5:45 and was hiking again at about 6. The lower Sierras were dry, so I carried a gallon to 1 1/2 gallons to make sure I had enough water until the next source. Some were dry, others had a little flow. Even one, the South Fork of the Kern RIVER was dry, except for a few big brownish puddles which provided two quarts until the next water. As I got higher on the third and fourth day out, walked along the Sierra Crest, peering down into the valley about 4-5,000' below. I did stop in Lone Pine--down in the valley--for a quick resupply, shower, meals and motel sleep. (Lone Pine is where the Whitney Portal is--and where many who climb Mt Whitney pass thru.) Whitney Portal is also the end/start of the John Muir Trial which overlaps with the PCT for some 231 miles. It seemed like a lot of people were heading south on the JMT, or at least I saw very few going north.

At Crabtree Meadow, just below Mt Whitney, water was no longer an issue. I'm carrying about a quart to two quarts; the longest between sources has been only 7 miles.

I did not go to the top of My Whitney. I decided that I don't do 14ners. Didn't do any on the CDT, so why start now.

Hiking in the high Sierras is breathtaking, in more than one way. Seems like I would go up a 1,000', than down 500; up 2,500' and drop 3,200; up 3,000 down 2,500, etc. The highest pass was Forester at 13,200--the trail up one side was blasted from its granite walls. The next few passes were above 12,000, then some about 12,000. The latest passes were only about 10,900, relative pieces of cake.

The scenery is also breathtaking. Sheer pinnacles, peaks, etc. Blasted-out trails; multiple switchbacks. Mountain lakes and cascading creeks/streams. Alpine tundra and forested slopes. Sheer granite walls and rounded domes.

Bears? I guess so since I've seen a lot of bear boxes, those metal storage bins humans are supposed to put food into if they don't have a bear canister (a plastic portable bin) I haven't seen many signs, except for some overturned rocks, although a ranger said there were some around a lake. As I get closer to Yosemite I can expect to have some encounters--all positive I hope. The ranger did slap my hands rather than giving me a citation because I didn't have the right type of food protection. I have two Ur sacks--Kevlar bags--but didn't have the aluminum insert. Without it I couldn't sleep the area--but she gave me a break and showed me a side trail that was out of the immediate area. I also bought an insert so when rangers up ahead stop me, I can say "Yes" I have....

Mentioned that there are a lot of people hiking the JMT. Some plan to do the whole trail, but have a different time frame than PCT long distance hikers like me. I'm hiking between 17 and 21 miles a day (its a little harder than in southern CA) while many of them hike about 10-14 miles a day. So when I'm hiking between 6 and 7am and 5and 6:30pm I walk past mini-cities, particularly around bear boxes. I've seen up to two dozen tents clustered together. I usually camp away from others, away from lakes, etc. as a means of not being around places that bears have learned that people have food.

Eight days after my quick in-and-out from Lone Pine, I did go into Vermilion Valley Resort. Took their small ferry across Lake Edison. Showered, washed clothes, had breakfast, lunch, supper, and breakfast the next day. Needless to say, I was kinda hungry. Stayed at VVR for about 23 hours, but didn't have a zero day. That zero day is today in Mammoth Lakes. A zero day is a day and two nights without having to carry a backpack. Since there are trolleys in Mammoth, even the need to walk to the grocery store, etc. is negated. Since I already have most of my chores done, I'm thinking of seeing a movie this afternoon. I did find a bakery just across the street from the motel and have already had a pound cake and an apple fritter.

My internet clock time is winding down so I'll close.




18-June-2007: Mile 663 in CA
Leaving the mid-level desert west of Mojave meant climbing some 2,200' in the Telachapi Mountains. Took only a gallon of water to go some 17 miles to the next water source. Almost ran short because I forgot how much needed going uphill in hot, exposed, sunny areas. Once in the trees and with plenty of water (1.5 gallons), the next 19 miles didn't seem so bad. Did have more than a quart when I arrived at the next spring.

Hiked past high ridges of windmill on and off for some 7 miles. Next morning dropped out of shade of pines/oaks of 6,660 to about 4500': umbrella time for next eight hours. Even at 5,000 or so feet the Mojave Desert sun can be warm--heat bounces up from the sand as well as from above.

Thankful for 2 major water caches about 18 miles apart. These provided the needed fluids without having to drop off the ridges some 500'+ down to springs. Carried 1.5 gallons from water source to water source for the next two days.

Saw bear prints, but no bears. At one pass, two Navy jets flew about 100' above tree level, hot-dogging thru the pass.

Hitched to Lake Isabella where I decided to stay Thursday night. Shower, laundry, and food do the body/spirit good. Also was able to buy a broad-brimmed hat, tossing away the baseball cap (which only cost 0.75 at a Mojave thrift shop.) Local bus took me back up toward the pass about 15 miles, then hitched the remaining 17.

After some serious uphill--about an 1,800 foot climb in 4 miles, back into trees once on the north slopes. Start of the Sierra crest--at least according to the guidebook--and past some impressive peaks. After about 13 miles on Friday all of a sudden it felt like my foot bones fell about 2 inches. They didn't, but something happened to my foot. I decided to bail since there was an old abandoned road that went about 4 miles back to the highway. I didn't want to get to far away from an easy exit and the foot was hurting (some of the time). It made me think of the stress fracture I had in New Mexico 4 years ago--hurt sometimes but other times on level trail was okay.

So I'm off the PCT for now, leaving at mile 663. I got a ride back into Lake Isabella; the next day I took the local bus to Bakersfield. Rented a car, driving up to Kennedy Meadows to retrieve a box from the General Store (no post office) and then to Los Angeles the next day for a plane flight to Spokane. I'm now in the Sandpoint/Sagle area trying to get an appointment with a sports orthopedic doc, but both are booked until the end of July. If I have a stress fracture it could be healed by then...

I didn't feel too upset about leaving the PCT since I was planning to get off the trail in about a week in order get to a family get-together the first of July.

Hopefully, I'll be back on the PCT by late July or mid-August and to get thru the Sierras before the snow flies. If I don't, there's always next year.

If I start again, I'll send you a note that I'm off again.



9-June-2007: Mojave, CA
Left Agua Dulce about 5 Tuesday morning--nary a soul was stirring except one guy at the computer. Got a good day's hike in, going about 26 miles. I did pass another trail angel's house--I heard that there was heavy partying, etc and decided I'd pass.

Tuesday was the day it was getting cool/cold in CA. That evening as I was hiking up a ridge, the clouds were sweeping up over the top. Since I wasn't sure what the weather might be for the rest of the night, I put up the tarp. Had to use some gallon water jugs that were there to hold the tarp down. About 2 hours later the tarp came down--winds kept blowing from every which direction. Since the sky was clear, I decided to take the tarp down, putting it in its stuff sack. The wind kept up the rest of the night. In the morning I could not find my hat. I looked for about a half hour but had no idea which direction it may have blown. Thanks goodness it was cool and that there were some trees at the 5-6,000' elevation. I did get a bandanna and wrapped it around my ears and put plenty of lotion on the nose and forehead.

Wednesday the trail dropped to about 3,000 and then followed a road along the Los Angeles (covered) aquaduct for 16 miles. I did put up the umbrella all afternoon at least keeping the sun from baking my skull. I also hiked the longest day so far: 30 miles.

Water wasn't a problem: either there were caches or other sources readily available. The most between sources was 16 miles. There was even a "shower" at one of the water sources--since I was only one night out from Mojave, I passed.

Wind farms--about 12 miles of walking past the giant beasts catching the wind. I even slept last night with the whooshes over my head. I did see, I think, a couple of the wild brown (Spanish) mustangs that still roam those hills.

Made it to the highway about 8 this morning. Called a motel and they picked me up (and another hiker from another road). The Days Inn had a hiker rate and I also got the AARP discount above that.

The temp in Mojave is probably in the high 80s today. I did get a baseball type hat and used the bandanna under it on the walk (of a mile) to the library. When I go next door to the grocery store, maybe I can find another, if not this will work. And I hope the temps are still reasonable for the next 3-4 days.

ZERO Day tomorrow. Since I've been to the post office (twice), done laundry, and will have bought needed food, tomorrow should be one of total lounging about...

I'm bumping into more and more people. Some I pass on the trail; others have stayed in town here more than 2 days, etc.

So far I'm right on schedule. I start into the (beginning) of the Sierras on Monday, at least that's how it's billed. Really don't stay above 6,000 or so for the next week. Judy will be sending me a resupply box to Kennedy Meadows with food as well as my tent and some warmer clothes. I'll send a box back to her--collect--since there is not a post office at the general store. I won't be in internet contact again until about the 24th in Independence.



4-June-2007: Agua Dulce, CA
Got in Hiker Heaven about 9:30 this morning. The Saufley's--who basically turn over their outside property to hikers--have provided almost everything a hiker could want/need. There is a mobile home that provides a shower and a kitchen. They have a laundry tent so people can get clean clothes after showering. Donna does all the laundry--but she's not been here since I arrived so I'm not sure when mine will get done. There are 6 canopy type tents with cots. They have two vehicles hikers can use in order to go into LA, get groceries, etc. And two laptop computers so all can retrieve/send important messages. Many folks spend two or more nights here--there are about 12 here now, some will be here 3-4 nights, either waiting for new equipment or healing blisters, or just hanging out. I plan to leave tomorrow morning early, assuming my clothes are clean...

The trip from Wrightwood was fairly uneventful. I got a ride out of town at 7 and was soon hiking again up on the ridges above 8,000. I did go to the top of Mt. Baden Powell --I assume all you former (boy) scouts will know who Baden Powell was. Stayed fairly high in the San Gabriels for the next three days so the temps were on the moderate side. When the trail started to go down, the temperature went up. Nothing in the three digits--yet--but in Agua Dulce is about 90 degrees today. Did carry plenty of water, but had no problem getting between the 17+ miles between water sources.

Another hiker about a 1/2 day ahead of me saw three bears over 36 hours--more bears than people. I did see another black rattlesnake lounging in the shade on the trail; it didn't want to move, but about 5 kicks of sand finally got it off the trail.

I've been hiking with/behind a couple since Wrightwood. They left the evening before me, but I caught up with them on Friday. Since then we would jockey back and forth, all of us getting to Hiker Heaven about the same time.

On Saturday all three of us arrived at the Mill Ranger Station about the same time. After we found the water facet, kinda debated whether to just tank up and get going again or to have dinner -- it was about 6 -- and find a place to stay for the night. Soon there was a car full of weirdos that drove up and back and then stopped a little ways down the road. After a bit a 'lady' asked if we had any bandages, etc because her son had cut his knee. Found a gauze pad. About 5 minutes later a Forest Service truck drove into the driveway--we were just on the cement pad in the shade. They got out their first aid kits, then the car also drove into the area. The FS folks took pulse rate--all the EMT stuff. About 15 minutes later a FS fire truck with 4 drove up; then a Los Angeles County fire engine with 4 guys plus another truck with one. All in all quite a turn out for a fractured knee cap. After splinting, they all went their merry ways and we headed up above a trailhead parking lot to find some level spots for sleeping. Quite a response--hopefully they would be able to do the same for me. I guess for the Angeles National Forest their biggest issue/concern is recreation since as far as I could tell there is no logging, mining, or cattle grazing. Hence the response teams for recreational issues.

Sunday at another ranger station about 18 miles from the previous, I stopped for lunch and rest at 1. The ranger brought me over a chicken fajita and pot. salad--was that good. When the couple arrived, he bought them some as well.

After leaving that RS, dropped from about 4700' to about 2500' (with some ups and downs in between), crossing Soledad Canyon Road--a place full of RV parks. Since it was Sunday evening, not many folks staying over. I decided that I would hike up to a saddle away from all the possible turmoil, found a spot and stopped about 7ish. Monday morning at 5 I was surprised to see all the traffic heading towards LA. I guess there are a number of people of do live out in the rural areas, but pay the price in terms of commute time. I'm also amazed that there can be so much hustle-bustle but still have something like the PCT that will be away from all that in 10 or so minutes.

Ahead is Mojave. It’s not flat as I had hopped, but will go up over 6,000 then back down. I've checked the water report and it looks very doable. I'll let you know when I get there.



31-May-2007: Wrightwood, CA
Another zero day, ten days and 191 miles since last stop. Wrightwood (WW) is at mile 369, about a 6 mile hitch down Highway 2.

I'd calculated the time it would take to get out of Idyllwild and to hike back up to the PCT, so I didn't get to the next resupply town--Big Bear City--until 7:15am Sat rather than Fri night. Decided to not stay the night--motels basically booked for Memorial Day weekend. Instead, took a shower at the Big Bear City fire station, did laundry, and grocery shopping. Leaving Von's, I waited for a bus to get back to the fire station. Dial-A-Ride came first: Asked if I could get a ride--the driver said only for those who called, but she would let me ride as a "Senior--Disabled". I accepted and limped aboard. And I guess I'm "disabled" because it sure is hard keeping up with all the young turds--those 20 and 30 somethings-. But it’s like the tortoise and the hare: they stop early, stay longer, and get started later. Somewhere along the way I pass them.

On second thought, maybe I'm not too disabled since I did three marathon days -- 26 miles-- in row since Bear City.

Since Mexico have gone thru the Laguna Mnts., San Jacintos, San Bernadinos, and now in the San Garbiels. An incoming wind from the sea has kept temperatures fairly nice in the high country, and not too bad in the low valleys. Crossing I-10 near Carbazon, the temp was in the low 90s. Only used my umbrella about 3 of the last 9 hiking days. Soon ahead, though, the trail drops below 4000' and temps will climb upwards. But for now am enjoying the coolness of WW.

I'm limited to a max of an hour a day on the library computer. I've already read the latest water report and deleted over a hundred emails and still have a few minutes left before I'm permanently shut down...

Hiked through a spectacular canyon for about ten miles Sunday and Monday--Deep Creek. (Vinnie, I think this is where your friend had concerns.) Got to the Hot Springs about 7am on Memorial Day. Still folks sleeping at that hour, but according to hikers, the day before was something else: drunkard with a rattlesnake; most high on acid or mushrooms; plenty of naked bodies in the hot springs. Anyway, at 7 Monday morning, nothing much happening. Kinda glad I missed all of it. For the next few hours there were gang taggings along the canyon. Glad I saw no one except fellow hikers.

Vegetation changes with elevation. Pines and firs up high; desert stuff down low. Have seen flattop buckwheat, globemallow (up to 5' tall), brittlebush; creosote, and many cactus plus other things I can’t identify. Animals: few more rattlesnakes, plenty of lizards, some rabbits, a few deer, and two foxes. Surprisingly, there have been no cattle along the PCT, although could see a few in the distance.

Water is still the guiding parameter for the hike. Most water sources have been between 12 and 16 miles apart. When leaving I-15 McDonalds (yes I had lunch/supper there), I and three others carried enough water to get to a water cache about 7 miles away. I actually carried about a gallon, just because... And sure enough, the water cache was EMPTY. The other three decided to hike to the next water source about 16 miles away--they made it, but were hurting. I decided to go up to a highway about a mile away and bum, or yogi as it’s called, for water. With two empty bottles upside down in my hands, a car stopped within five minutes. I got two more quarts from them and went back to the PCT about an hour later. Stopping that night about 8, then up the next morning early, I made it to the water with about a 1/2 quart left. I was glad I had gotten the extra water for the 3,000' 16 mile climb.

Got to go. Time is almost up in about two minutes.



21-May-2007: Idyllwild, CA
After 10 days of hiking I'm taking a ZERO day in Idyllwild, CA. Idyllwild is a weekend tourist town nestled at the base of the San Jacinto Mnts. Yesterday was like a zoo with all the Harley weekenders and others.

I started my PCT hike on Friday, the 11th. Got a ride from the airport all the way to the Mexican border just south of Campo and started hiking about 3:30. Made 11 miles through the desert brush before stopping that night. Most days I hiked about 20-24 miles, starting to hike about 5:15 and stopping around 7 to 7:30. I do spend at least an hour--sometimes two hiding in the shade (if I can find it) between 12 and 2.

My first stop was Warner Springs on Wed about 9am. Warner Springs Resort has special rates for hikers and it was good to get a shower and wash clothes. Problem with doing laundry was that I didn't have an extra set of clothes (they were in my drift box which didn't stop at Warner Springs) so I was walking around in my raincoat until stuff came out of the dryer. Usually no big deal, but I did have the opportunity to meet 5 other PCT hikers while dressed in the blue coat.

Speaking of hikers, I saw no one until the Tues. evening before Warner. Quite unusual, but I was about 12 days behind the herd/wave of hikers. There were 315 folks signed in at one location. And there were about ten or so behind me. I'm not quite the oldest old guy on the trail--there is a 69 year old and another 67er. (Dave, I did see Terry's name at about mile 145, 12 days ahead of me; so he must be doing okay.)

In the lower elevations -- 2,500 - 5,500' -- the temperature is warm--mid 80s or so. Not that hot, but warm enough for me to use the umbrella for almost every day. The day before getting into Idyllwild, I didn't need the umbrella. Elevation got up to 8500 in the San Jacintos. No rain, no snow--just sun.
Water is the major organizing factor of the hike, and will be for the next weeks. For the first few days I would still have about 2 quarts of water when I got to the next water source. I've finally scaled back a little but haven't run out of water. Sometimes it’s been about 20 miles between sources--usually 10-12 miles. There have been water caches which have been most welcome and allowed the shorter distances between water. I have hiked off trail a mile and again 0.5 mile in order to resupply with H2O.

Food: I'm probably losing weight but trying to bulk up during town stops. I even hiked an extra mile and back to get to a restaurant in order to by a Jose Burger (a PCT hiker favorite): 1/2 pound hamburger, avocado, mushrooms, cheese, jalapeno with fries, coleslaw, tomato and pickle slices. When I got to Idyllwild yesterday afternoon, I did buy a large pizza. Couldn't eat it all, so it’s in the motel refrigerator for snacks, like at 8:30 this am. I already had breakfast an hour earlier. The main purpose of a zero day is to walk very little and to eat as much as possible--and to take multiple naps.

About enough for now. There is a 30 minute limit on the library's computers and I've already been here an hour. And it’s about time to get something to eat...